Our second day in Istanbul called for some hardcore sight-seeing. After guzzling bottled water in order to fend off any raki induced malaise, we headed off to the Haghia Sophia, “Divine Wisdom” in Greek. Probably Istanbul’s 2nd most well recognized architectural feat, this domed behemoth actually started out as a church, built by Orthodox followers.When the Muslim’s invaded and took over Istanbul, they liked the structure so much that they used it as the template for all mosques they built thereafter (the Blue Mosque is actually based on a Church, which is why the two look so similar….how crazy!). Inside the Haghia Sophia there had been amazing mosaics of Biblical scenes, which were plastered over by, as the guidebook described, “mediocre muslim art.” In the 1960’s, a massive effort to recover the mosaics was made, and you can now see a decent portion of these breathtaking mosaics. This Church/mosque has such amazing architecture, but I found it most interesting for the mind-blowing intersection of religion and culture. The best part was the painting of Mary and baby Jesus on the ceiling, then off to the side a gigantic pendant inscribed with Allah on it. Simply breathtaking.
Topkaki palace came next, which housed all of the Sultans, their families, and their mignons….5,000 people living there, all at the same time! The best part here was getting to see (ok, PAYING to see) the harem. There were some 300 cavernous rooms built into a separate side of the palace for all of the sultan’s concubines, female relatives, and mistresses. No men at all were allowed, expect for the Enochs, black African slaves who had been emasculated, and forced to keep guard. A special bedroom and entrance for the Sultan had been built, with special water that could be turned on to drown out “important conversation” (or *ahem* frolicking as one book put it….how scandalous!).
After all the sightseeing, we set off (prepared this time) to find a nice, decent priced place for dinner. We walked the side streets adjacent to the tram-way, and were immediately accosted by a throng of restaurant owners. The prices were high, and on a whim (we didn’t think you could do this) we attempted to haggle for prices on dinner. One owner (who we will soon find out is a Kurd named Jimmy) was receptive, and offered up drinks, appetizers, the main course, and dessert all for 25 TYL (about 18 USD). The highlight of this meal was the delicious hummus, which I hadn’t had at all since I’ve been in Switzerland, and my chicken and vegetable stew, served in a traditional steel bowl. But better than the food were the people we met: a French couple visiting and taking their very cute son (who was studying in Istanbul) out to dinner; a Swiss couple from Zurich, both very reserved yet friendly, the woman whom we come to find out is in the final running to design the new Swiss bank notes; and later, a crazy, party-hearty pair of Irish newlyweds, with whom who we drink raki, smoke melon flavored water-pipe (as they say in Istanbul), talk about Zombie movies and swap traveling stories until 2am.
We had had high hopes for an early night and some quality sleep…..but this was SO much better, definitely a night I won’t soon forget.
Ah, the bittersweet last day. We slept in until the latest hour possible, then headed back to the Grand-Bazaar for some final purchases….most of which I cannot disclose here, because many will be receiving presents either via mail or upon my return in August. I, however, haggled for a dirt-cheap price on a pair of black and white knock-off Puma’s (score!), an amazing pink and purple tapestry/wall hanging, a beautiful pink cashmere/silk pashmina, and some really soft and comfy “genie” pants to sleep in, also pink (I think I see a theme developing…..all the girliness I rejected as a child is coming back to haunt me).
The rest of the day we wandered the streets of Taksim, the younger, hipper, more modern area, and took our version of a “river cruise,” also known as riding the commuter ferryboat in the wrong direction and then taking it back again (hey, $2.00 vs. $15!). Exhausted after our final day, we had one last great meal of turkish meat, vegetables, bread and rice pudding, and headed back to our hostel to pack up and say good-bye to this great city.
Our plane departed Turkey at 3:30am, and after bus, train and tram I didn’t arrive back in Geneva until 10am. I woke up 2 hrs later puking my guts out, and up until a few hours ago hadn’t felt good enough to get out of bed, let alone get on the computer. Looking at pictures and writing this blog has already made me nostalgic for the amazing 3 days I spent in Turkey; so many amazing people, sights, smells, sounds, taste. One thing is certain…I will definitely be back.
Tesekkür ederim, Istanbul
Tesekkür ederim, Turkey
See you soon.
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